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Not Your Grandmother’s Gin: Charting the Modern Craft Gin Renaissance
- The Liquor Librarian
- Apr 30
- 16 min read
Gin. For some, the name conjures crisp Martinis and refreshing G&Ts under the summer sun. For others, maybe less pleasant memories of overly piney spirits that dominated liquor store shelves for decades. But if you haven’t explored gin lately, you’re missing out on one of the most dynamic and exciting corners of the spirits world. We’re living through a genuine gin renaissance, driven by passionate craft distillers who are tearing up the rulebook, exploring new techniques, and bottling flavors that range from hyper-local to globally inspired.
Forget the idea that gin is a one-note juniper bomb. Today’s gin landscape is vast and varied, offering something for nearly every palate. We’ll explore how small-batch producers are innovating, dive into fascinating techniques like vacuum distillation, tour the world through regional botanicals, decode the pink gin trend, and even look at how distilleries are embracing sustainability. Let’s see what makes modern gin so compelling.
Key Takeaways
Gin has dramatically evolved from its historical “Mother’s Ruin” image to become a vibrant and diverse craft spirit category enjoyed worldwide.
The craft gin movement emphasizes small-batch production, unique botanical blends often sourced locally, direct distiller involvement, and innovative methods.
Modern distillation techniques, notably vacuum (or cold) distillation, allow producers to capture the fresh, delicate flavors of sensitive botanicals more effectively than traditional heat distillation alone.
A major trend is the focus on regionality, with distillers using local flora to create gins with a distinct sense of place, from the American West and the Mediterranean to Japan and beyond.
Pink gin has become a significant subcategory, typically achieving its color and often sweeter, fruitier profile from post-distillation flavoring, making it an accessible entry point for many consumers.
Sustainability is increasingly important in gin production, with many distilleries implementing practices like local/organic sourcing, water and energy conservation, waste reduction, and eco-friendly packaging.
Building a versatile home gin bar involves exploring different styles, perhaps starting with a classic London Dry, adding a contemporary/New Western gin, and selecting a distinctive regional or barrel-aged expression.
Table of Contents
I. Gin’s Comeback Story: From Mother’s Ruin to Craft Darling
To appreciate where gin is now, it helps to know where it’s been. Its ancestor, Dutch genever, was a malt wine flavored with juniper, originally consumed for medicinal purposes. English soldiers encountered it during the Eighty Years’ War, brought it home, and eventually, gin took off in England, perhaps a little too well. The infamous “Gin Craze” of the 18th century, depicted in Hogarth’s cautionary print “Gin Lane,” cemented its reputation as “Mother’s Ruin,” associated with social decay and widespread drunkenness.
Legislation eventually curbed the chaos, and technological advancements like the Coffey still led to cleaner, more refined spirits. This paved the way for London Dry Gin in the 19th century. This style isn’t defined by geography but by its process, which involves redistilling a high-purity neutral spirit with botanicals (mostly juniper). Nothing is added after distillation except water and occasionally a tiny bit of sugar, though purists might object. Brands like Tanqueray, Beefeater, and Gordon’s became the global standard-bearers, defining gin for generations. Their crisp, juniper-forward profile became synonymous with classic cocktails like the Martini, Gimlet, and Tom Collins.
For much of the 20th century, London Dry reigned supreme. But then came the vodka boom. Vodka’s neutrality and marketing campaigns emphasizing lifestyle and mixability captured the public imagination, pushing gin somewhat into the background. If you walked into a bar in the 80s or 90s, the gin selection was likely limited to a few familiar London Dry giants.
So, what changed? Several factors converged in the late 20th and early 21st centuries. Firstly, a renewed interest in classic cocktails brought gin back into the spotlight. Bartenders rediscovered pre-Prohibition recipes where gin was often the star. Secondly, consumers began seeking more flavor and character in their spirits, moving away from vodka’s deliberate neutrality. This coincided with the rise of the craft movement across food and beverage, including craft beer, artisanal cheese, and single-origin coffee. People wanted products with provenance, interesting stories, and unique flavor profiles. Gin, with its botanical diversity offering a vast canvas for creativity, was perfectly positioned for a craft revival.
Brands like Bombay Sapphire, launched in 1986 with its distinctive blue bottle and emphasis on ten globally sourced botanicals, signaled a shift towards a slightly softer, more complex style than traditional London Dry. Then came Hendrick’s Gin in 1999. Famously infused with cucumber and rose, it truly broke the juniper-dominant mold and ushered in the era of “New Western” or “Modern” gin. These are styles where juniper is present but doesn’t necessarily lead the charge. These pioneers paved the way for the explosion of craft distilleries we see today.
II. The Rise of Craft Gin: Small Batches, Big Flavors
What exactly do we mean by “craft gin”? Like “craft beer,” the term can be a bit nebulous, but generally, it refers to gin produced by smaller, independent distilleries focused on quality, innovation, and often, a connection to place. Unlike the large heritage brands producing millions of cases annually, craft distillers typically operate on a much smaller scale, allowing for more hands-on control and experimentation.
Key characteristics often associated with craft gin include:
Small Batch Production: Distilling in smaller pot stills allows for greater precision and nuance. It also means producers can experiment with seasonal ingredients or limited releases.
Focus on Botanicals: Craft distillers often go beyond the classic London Dry botanicals (juniper, coriander, angelica, citrus peel). They might forage locally, collaborate with farmers, or source rare and exotic ingredients from around the world. The specific botanical blend is the signature.
Distiller Involvement: Often, the founder or head distiller is intimately involved in every step, from sourcing ingredients to running the still and bottling the final product. There’s a personal touch and passion evident in the spirit.
Transparency and Storytelling: Craft brands often emphasize their process, ingredients, and origin story. Consumers increasingly want to know how and where their spirits are made. Think of distilleries like St. George Spirits in California, pioneers of the American craft scene, who proudly detail their unique botanical choices and distillation methods for gins like their Botanivore or Terroir expressions.
Innovation: Craft distillers aren’t bound by tradition in the same way legacy brands might be. They experiment with different base spirits (like grape or apple instead of grain), unusual botanicals, barrel aging, and novel distillation techniques.
This rise isn’t just anecdotal. Look at the sheer number of new gin brands that have launched in the past 15-20 years. In the UK alone, the number of distilleries exploded, largely fueled by gin’s popularity. Sipsmith famously fought a long legal battle to obtain a license for small-scale gin distilling in London in 2009, opening the floodgates for hundreds of others. Similar trends occurred in the US, Spain, Germany, Australia, and beyond.
This movement thrives because it taps into a desire for authenticity and variety. While a classic Tanqueray and tonic is always reliable, sometimes you want something different, perhaps a gin that tastes like the forest floor after rain or one bursting with bright citrus and floral notes. Craft gin provides that diversity. It’s moved gin from being a predictable staple to a category ripe for exploration.
III. Breaking the Mold: Modern Distillation Techniques Explained
While the specific botanicals are crucial, how their flavors are extracted and captured in the final spirit is equally important. Traditional gin production typically involves redistilling a neutral base spirit with botanicals in a copper pot still. The botanicals can be macerated (steeped) directly in the spirit before distillation, or placed in a basket in the still’s neck so the alcohol vapors pass through them (vapor infusion), or a combination of both. Heat is applied, the alcohol vaporizes, carrying the essential oils from the botanicals with it, and then it’s condensed back into liquid gin.
This method has produced fantastic gins for centuries. However, heat can sometimes alter or degrade more delicate botanical compounds. Think of fresh herbs or delicate flowers; boiling them might not capture their truest, brightest aromas. This is where modern techniques, particularly vacuum distillation (also known as cold distillation), come into play.
How Vacuum Distillation Works:
Remember high school science? Water boils at 100°C (212°F) at standard atmospheric pressure. But if you lower the pressure, for instance by going up a mountain or creating a vacuum, the boiling point drops significantly. Vacuum distillation applies this principle to spirit production.
By distilling under reduced pressure inside the still, the alcohol can be boiled off at much lower temperatures, sometimes even below room temperature.
Why It Matters for Gin:
Preserving Delicate Flavors: This gentle process avoids “cooking” sensitive botanicals. Ingredients like fresh citrus peel, cucumber, floral petals (rose, elderflower), or delicate herbs retain their bright, fresh character without developing stewed or jammy notes.
Creating Unique Profiles: It allows distillers to successfully incorporate ingredients that wouldn’t survive traditional high-heat distillation, opening up new possibilities for flavor combinations.
Brighter, Fresher Gins: Gins made using vacuum distillation often have a distinct vibrancy and aromatic intensity. The flavors can feel more precise and less muddled.
Oxley Gin is perhaps the best-known example primarily using this method, promoting its “cold distillation” process. However, many craft distillers now incorporate vacuum distillation for specific delicate botanicals within their overall process, even if the main distillation run is traditional. They might distill fresh cucumber or rose petals separately under vacuum and then blend this distillate back into the main gin run. This hybrid approach allows them to get the best of both worlds: the structure and depth from traditional distillation and the vibrant top notes from the cold-distilled elements.
It’s not necessarily “better” than traditional distillation, just different. Think of it like cooking techniques. Sometimes you want the deep flavors of roasting, similar to traditional distillation, while other times you want the bright freshness of steaming or sous-vide, akin to vacuum distillation. It’s another tool in the modern distiller’s kit, allowing for greater control and expanding the spectrum of possible gin flavors.
IV. A World of Flavor: Regional Botanicals Take Center Stage
One of the most exciting aspects of the craft gin boom is the focus on terroir and regionality. While London Dry gin is defined by process, not place, many modern distillers are creating gins that taste distinctly of a place, using locally sourced or regionally inspired botanicals. This turns gin into a journey, a liquid postcard from different corners of the globe.
The American West: Distillers in states like California, Oregon, Colorado, and Washington draw inspiration from their dramatic landscapes.
St. George Spirits’ Terroir Gin (California): A benchmark example, aiming to capture the scent of hiking Mount Tamalpais. It uses Douglas fir, California bay laurel, coastal sage, and other local botanicals for a remarkably evocative, forest-like profile.
Leopold Bros. Navy Strength Gin (Colorado): While adhering to traditional methods, their meticulous sourcing includes hand-zested oranges and pummelos, showcasing a commitment to quality ingredients often found in craft producers.
Other examples: Gins featuring sagebrush, juniper harvested from local mountains, or unique regional citrus varieties.
Mediterranean Influence: The sunny climate and aromatic flora of Southern Europe provide rich inspiration.
Gin Mare (Spain): Perhaps the category leader here. Distilled near Barcelona, it incorporates Arbequina olives, thyme, rosemary, and basil alongside traditional botanicals. The result is savory, herbaceous, and uniquely Mediterranean – fantastic in a G&T with a sprig of rosemary.
Italian Gins: Brands like Malfy Gin highlight Italian citrus (lemons from Amalfi, Sicilian blood oranges), while others incorporate local herbs or even wine grapes in their base spirit.
Japanese Precision: Japanese craftsmanship, known for meticulous attention to detail in whisky (like the sought-after Hibiki expressions) and vodka (such as the smooth Haku Vodka), extends beautifully to gin. Japanese gins often emphasize balance, harmony, and unique local botanicals.
Roku Gin (Japan): Produced by Suntory, Roku translates to “six,” representing the six uniquely Japanese botanicals used: Sakura flower (cherry blossom), Sakura leaf, Yuzu peel, Sencha tea (green tea), Gyokuro tea (refined green tea), and Sansho pepper. These are harvested at their peak season and distilled separately using different techniques to capture their optimal character before being blended with traditional gin botanicals. The result is layered and complex, with floral and citrus notes leading to a hint of spice. It showcases that distinctive Japanese balance.
Nikka Coffey Gin (Japan): From the famed whisky producer, this gin uses a Coffey still (typically used for grain whisky) and features botanicals like Yuzu, Amanatsu, and Kabosu alongside Sansho pepper, resulting in a bright, citrus-forward profile with underlying complexity.
Ki No Bi Kyoto Dry Gin (Japan): Considered one of the pioneers of Japanese craft gin, it uses a rice spirit base and botanicals like yuzu, hinoki wood chips, bamboo leaves, green shiso, and gyokuro tea. It’s often categorized by its distinct flavor elements (base, citrus, tea, herbal, spice, floral).
Other Global Examples: The trend is worldwide.
Australia: Distilleries leverage unique “bush tucker” botanicals like lemon myrtle, Tasmanian pepperberry, finger limes, and various native flowers (e.g., Four Pillars Bloody Shiraz Gin, using local grapes).
Scotland: While famous for whisky, Scotland has a booming craft gin scene. Many distilleries use local botanicals found in the Highlands and Islands. The Botanist Gin from Islay famously uses 22 hand-foraged local botanicals.
South Africa: Gins incorporating fynbos botanicals (unique shrubland vegetation) like rooibos and honeybush offer distinctively earthy and floral notes (e.g., Inverroche Gin).
Nordic Countries: Gins featuring ingredients like lingonberries, sea buckthorn, birch leaves, and meadowsweet capture the essence of Scandinavian forests and coastlines (e.g., Hernö Gin from Sweden).
This focus on regionality makes exploring gin incredibly rewarding. You can travel the world glass by glass, experiencing unique flavor combinations tied to specific ecosystems and cultures. It encourages you to think beyond just “gin” and consider its origin and inspiration.
V. Think Pink: Understanding the Pink Gin Phenomenon
Walk down the spirits aisle today, and you can’t miss them: bottles filled with blush, salmon, or vividly pink liquid. Pink gin has exploded in popularity over the past decade, becoming a significant subcategory in its own right. But what exactly is it, and where did it come from?
Historical Roots: The original “pink gin” wasn’t a specific product but a simple cocktail favored by the British Royal Navy in the 19th century. Sailors would add a dash of Angostura bitters to their Plymouth Gin. The bitters were believed to combat seasickness, and the gin made the medicine more palatable (a classic case of making medicine tasty!). Plymouth Gin, being slightly sweeter and earthier than London Dry, paired well with the aromatic spice of the bitters, creating a simple, effective drink with a pinkish hue.
Modern Pink Gin: Today’s popular pink gins are usually quite different. While some craft distillers make bitters-led pink gins nodding to the original cocktail, the vast majority of the best-sellers are flavored gins, typically infused or flavored with fruits and berries after distillation.
Flavor Profile: These gins are often sweeter and fruitier than traditional styles. Common flavors include strawberry, raspberry, rhubarb, pink grapefruit, and other red/pink fruits. Juniper often takes a backseat to these dominant fruit notes.
Key Brands: Gordon’s Premium Pink Distilled Gin (flavored with raspberries, strawberries, and redcurrant) and Beefeater Pink Strawberry Gin have been hugely successful globally, driving much of the trend’s growth. Many other major brands and craft distilleries have followed suit with their own versions.
Appeal: Why the boom? Several factors contribute:
Accessibility: The often sweeter, fruit-forward profile makes pink gin appealing to drinkers who might find traditional gin too juniper-heavy or “botanical.” It serves as an easy entry point into the category.
Visual Appeal: Let’s be honest, the color is eye-catching on the shelf and looks great in a glass, especially in simple serves like a Pink G&T garnished with berries. It’s highly Instagrammable.
Mixability: Pink gins work well in simple mixed drinks and spritzes, requiring minimal effort to create a flavorful and attractive drink.
Gimmick or Category Extension? Some purists scoff at modern pink gin, dismissing it as overly sweet, artificially flavored, or simply a marketing gimmick straying too far from gin’s heritage. They argue that the heavy fruit flavors often mask the gin’s botanical complexity.
However, consumer sales data clearly shows a massive appetite for these products, particularly among younger demographics and those new to gin. Brands argue they are expanding the category and bringing new consumers in. Like flavored vodkas before them, flavored gins cater to a desire for easy-to-drink, flavorful options.
Ultimately, whether you enjoy pink gin is a matter of personal taste. If you’re looking for a complex, juniper-driven sipping experience, most mainstream pink gins probably aren’t for you. But if you enjoy fruity, refreshing drinks and appreciate the visual flair, they offer a fun and accessible option. The key is understanding what you’re buying: typically a flavored gin, not a traditional style simply colored pink.
VI. Sipping Sustainably: The Greener Side of Gin Production
As consumers become more environmentally conscious, the spirits industry is facing increasing pressure to adopt sustainable practices. Gin production, like any manufacturing process, has an environmental footprint related to agriculture, water use, energy consumption, and packaging. Thankfully, many distilleries, particularly in the craft sector, are actively working to minimize their impact.
Here are some key areas where gin producers are making strides:
Sustainable Sourcing:
Local Botanicals: Sourcing botanicals locally reduces transportation emissions (“food miles”) and supports local agriculture. Some distillers even forage botanicals hyper-locally and sustainably.
Organic Farming: Choosing organically grown botanicals and base spirit grains avoids synthetic pesticides and fertilizers, benefiting soil health and biodiversity.
Ethical Sourcing: Ensuring fair labor practices and sustainable harvesting methods for globally sourced botanicals.
Water Conservation: Distillation requires significant amounts of water for cooling condensers. Modern distilleries are implementing:
Closed-Loop Cooling Systems: These systems recycle cooling water instead of constantly drawing fresh water, drastically reducing consumption.
Water Treatment: Treating wastewater responsibly before discharge.
Energy Efficiency: Distillation is energy-intensive. Greener approaches include:
Renewable Energy: Powering stills and facilities with solar panels, biomass boilers (using spent botanicals or local wood waste), or purchasing renewable energy credits.
Heat Recovery: Capturing waste heat from distillation to pre-heat the next batch or warm buildings.
Efficient Still Design: Modern stills can be designed for better energy efficiency.
Waste Reduction:
Spent Botanicals: Reusing spent botanicals (post-distillation) as compost, animal feed, or even fuel for biomass boilers.
Packaging: Moving towards lighter glass bottles (reducing shipping weight and emissions), using recycled glass, eliminating plastic components, opting for recycled/recyclable cardboard, and exploring alternative packaging formats. Some brands offer refill pouches or local bottle return schemes.
Certifications: Some distilleries pursue formal certifications like B Corp status (demonstrating high standards of social and environmental performance, accountability, and transparency) or organic certifications.
Examples of distilleries leading the way include Nc’nean and Arbikie in Scotland, both known for their strong commitments to organic farming and renewable energy. Bruichladdich, producers of The Botanist Gin, are B Corp certified and heavily focused on local agriculture and community initiatives on Islay. Cooper King Distillery in England runs on 100% green energy and plants woodland for every bottle sold.
While not every distillery highlights its sustainability efforts, it’s becoming an increasingly important factor for many consumers. Choosing brands that are transparent about their environmental practices allows you to enjoy your gin knowing it was produced with a lighter touch on the planet.
VII. Stocking Your Bar in the New Gin Era
With such a dizzying array of gins available, how do you choose what to stock for your home bar? It really depends on your taste and how you like to drink gin, but having a few different styles on hand allows for versatility.
Here’s a suggested approach for building a well-rounded gin selection:
The Classic Benchmark: London Dry
You need a solid, juniper-forward workhorse for classic Martinis, Negronis, and G&Ts where you want that quintessential gin character to shine through.
Examples: Tanqueray London Dry, Beefeater London Dry, Fords Gin. These are reliable, widely available, and perform beautifully in traditional cocktails. There’s a reason they’ve endured.
The Modern All-Rounder: New Western / Contemporary
These gins dial
Common Questions & Expert Answers
Q1: How do I pick the right gin for my personal taste—are there simple guidelines for beginners?Answer: Start by considering what flavors you enjoy. If you like strong herbal or piney tastes, classic London Dry gins like Tanqueray or Beefeater are a safe bet. If you prefer something softer or more floral, try a New Western gin—Roku Gin, for example, features gentle cherry blossom and yuzu notes. Don’t hesitate to ask for recommendations at your local shop, and remember, there’s no wrong answer—sampling different styles is the best way to discover your preferences.
Q2: What’s the main difference between London Dry gin and New Western (or contemporary) gin?Answer: The distinction is all about the botanical spotlight. London Dry gins are required to have juniper as the dominant flavor—think crisp, assertive, and aromatic. New Western gins, like Hendrick’s or Roku Gin, feature juniper but allow other botanicals (like cucumber, tea, or citrus) to lead, resulting in a more balanced or even unusual profile.
Q3: How can I tell if a gin has been vacuum (cold) distilled, and what does it really add to the spirit?Answer: This technique is usually highlighted on the bottle or the distiller’s website, since it’s a point of pride for producers. Vacuum distilled gins offer brighter, fresher flavors, capturing delicate notes that can be lost with high heat. Brands like Oxley embrace this for exceptionally vibrant spirits, but some craft brands use cold distillation for a few botanicals—like Sakura blossom in Roku Gin—then blend into a traditional distillate.
Q4: I’ve seen an explosion of pink gins lately. Are these considered ‘true’ gins, and can they be used in classic cocktails?Answer: Most modern pink gins are flavored after distillation with fruit or other ingredients, giving them a sweeter and fruit-forward profile compared to traditional gins. They technically qualify as gin, but the bold fruit flavor and sweetness can overwhelm classic recipes like a Martini or Negroni. They’re great for simple spritzes or a Pink G&T—think of them as a fun, accessible side quest in the gin world, similar to what flavored vodkas have done for that category.
Q5: If I want a sustainable gin, what should I look for on the bottle or brand’s literature?Answer: Look for cues like “locally sourced botanicals,” “organic,” “B Corp certified,” or mentions of eco-friendly production methods. Brands such as The Botanist (from Bruichladdich) and certain Australian gins often highlight sustainability, but even big names like Roku Gin emphasize responsible sourcing and community engagement. Lightweight bottles and refill packaging are other good signs.
Q6: How important is the base spirit (grain, grape, apple, etc.) in the final gin flavor?Answer: While botanicals define gin’s character, the base spirit does influence texture and subtle undertones. Most classic gins use grain for a clean, neutral background. Some, like grape-based Gin Mare or certain craft varieties, provide a rounder mouthfeel or faint fruitiness. Japanese gins, such as those from Roku or Ki No Bi, sometimes use rice, lending an elegant smoothness akin to Haku Vodka. It’s a subtle touch, but worth exploring as your palate grows.
Q7: Are there any must-have tools or glassware for making great gin cocktails at home?Answer: You don’t need much to start: a good jigger for measuring, a mixing glass or shaker, a strainer, and a bar spoon will cover almost every classic gin drink. As for glassware, a simple highball works for gin & tonics, while a coupe or Martini glass is perfect for stirred cocktails. Investing in nice ice—clear, large cubes—also upgrades your presentation and keeps drinks cold without over-dilution.
Q8: How do I build a basic but versatile home gin bar without spending a fortune?Answer: Choose one classic London Dry (like Beefeater), one modern or regional gin (Roku Gin is wonderfully versatile), and perhaps a fruit-forward pink gin if you enjoy sweeter drinks. That trio covers everything from classic Martinis to creative spritzes. Add fresh citrus, tonic, and club soda as mixers, plus a few simple garnishes—like lemon, lime, or herbs. Maker’s Mark, for example, is to bourbon what a good London Dry is to gin—a foundational, reliable bottle for almost any occasion.
Q9: What are some simple, crowd-pleasing gin cocktail recipes for entertaining?Answer: Start with classics: A well-made G&T (Roku Gin and Fever-Tree tonic with a grapefruit peel) is universally loved. Tom Collins (gin, lemon juice, simple syrup, and club soda) is refreshing and easy to batch for groups. For something more adventurous, try a Cucumber Southside (gin, mint, cucumber, lime, and sugar). Brands like Bombay Sapphire or Roku Gin shine in these lighter, aromatic highball-style drinks.
Q10: What are good food pairings for different gin styles?Answer: Juniper-forward gins like Tanqueray pair beautifully with smoked salmon, oysters, or classic British fare. Herbal or floral gins—such as Roku Gin or The Botanist—complement sushi, grilled vegetables, or salads with citrus vinaigrettes. Sweeter or pink gins go well with fruit desserts, berry tarts, or even spicy Asian appetizers, thanks to their vibrant, refreshing profile. Don’t be afraid to experiment—the diversity of gin styles means there’s a pairing for almost anything on your table!
